REVIEW: The Hide
Dubai’s quest to introduce ‘different’ kinds of restaurants to its culinary landscape continues with the introduction of The Hide, an American meatery in the Jumeirah Al Qasr hotel. Inspired by the best modern meat-eating joints in gastronomic centres like New York and Los Angeles, this is a hangout for the region's carnivores.
There is much about The Hide that’s refreshing, from its exposed brick work décor and informal but effective service, across to its bold as brass championing of ‘forgotten’ cuts of meat, the kind which other restaurants seemingly ignore at their peril. But in a city known for its pricey ceiling when it comes to food and drink, perhaps the most welcome sight – well, at least where ShortList's wallets are concerned – was The Hide’s price point. Bar the ‘two to share’ options, no mains, starter or desert is upwards of AED210, and that’s certainly not for lack of quality. And as a result, we found the menu a legitimately tough one to choose from. If you find yourself in a similar pickle, do what we did and air on the side of gluttony.
Not being particularly big fans of raw meat, it took some gentle persuasion from the restaurant staff to pick the DIY Steak Tartare, following grave assurances it was one of their signature dishes and could turn almost all pallets. Their confidence wasn’t misplaced, and whether you do in fact ‘do it yourself’ as encouraged or leave it to the pros, the rose veal, sourdough and spice grinder mix put this as the best version of steak tartare we’ve had in the city. Other triumphs of note from the appetiser selection include surf ‘n’ turf gnocchi, a dish we hadn’t actually come across before but one we’d happily seek out again.
Should you opt for the forgotten cuts of flat iron, hanger or flank steak for your mains or instead sample the offerings from The Hide’s exclusive super dry aged beef (sourced from the Spanish mountains), you won’t be left disappointed – all are excellent.
The uniform quality of the meat selection is perhaps only trumped by that of the sides – almost a meal in their own right. Of the mix of Idaho skin on fries, confit duck onion rings and truffle honeyed carrots, championing one stand-out is a hard task. But if you’re insistent, we’d recommend plumping for the pulled beef short rib potatoes, beautifully held together with Montgomery cheddar.
If you’ve done The Hide right – the staff will practically have to roll you out the door. Chances are you might not even finish your meal, but given the aforementioned competitive price of the affair, it’s a battle you’ll be more than happy to lose.
Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, +971 04 366 6750