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Dubai’s Fume serves up slow pleasures

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Fümé certainly defies easy categorisation. It offers an industrialist interior, 1950s diner serving dishes, Scandinavian furniture and Americana touches – all  of which peer down on the Dubai Marina via enormous plate-glass windows –and serves up an eclectic menu of smoked and slow-cooked dishes, all designed for sharing. It might warrant the term “concept” if we could work out what the concept was.

Loosely, it’s about comfort food drawn from across the world. Operations Manager Angelo Rosato called it “food nostalgia” and despite the varied and various strands on show, there’s no denying it works – and works wonderfully. The quality of the food, the creativity of the drinks and the informal friendliness of the service are all hallmarks of what has become an established Marina favourite.

With all of the smoking done onsite, and the use of coconut husks imported from Bali to impart the incredible flavour to the meat and fish, there is an undeniably appealing backstory to Fümé. But it’s the food that remains the star attraction. The latest addition to Pier 7’s gastronomical skyscraper is a where an informal bite might swallow up an entire evening.

Here are our must-try dishes from the excellent menu:

Smoked-mackerel pate
An early crowd pleaser that arrives in a small can and is served with shards of rustic toast. It is made and canned onsite and is a soft, smoky delight that is undoubtedly in our top five favourite starters in Dubai.

Crispy duck salad
This is perhaps the most unusual dish on the menu and might not be to everyone’s taste, but the strings of soft duck come on a bed of watermelon and are topped with hoisin sauce and cashews. Strange but strangely good.

Hot oak-smoked salmon
Perhaps one of Fumé’s signature dishes, this is a slow-cooked, sweet-glazed salmon steak that is served with a teriyaki sauce and pickled cucumbers. Order two.

Six-hour smoked beef chuck rib
Doesn’t really need much more of a description, really. It’s buttery soft and melts away on the palate. Divine.

Apple and rhubarb crumble
Their homemade gelato certainly merits a mention, but if we’re talking comfort food, the apple and rhubarb crumble is small tray of magnificence. Served with ice cream and custard, it is a loving embrace from an old friend.

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